# CrikeyCon 8 Badge

The CrikeyCon 8 badges have a simple led circuit. This document demonstrates the process of soldering the necessary components to enable this functionality.

## Design and Component Selection

Design of the electronics for the badges this year was largely driven by the availability of components, and a desire for the simplest design with a minimal use of through hole components, as these can snag clothing.

The badges were designed to either operate off their own 3.3v coin cell battery, or to operate off 3.3v supplied via the 2x3 "Simple Add On" header. See for more details on the [SAO v1.69 bis Standard]( [Permalink](

The LED's were selected to support a 3.3v forward voltage, and as the supply and forward voltage were the same, a 1 ohm current limiting resistor was used.

## Bill of Materials

At the convention, there will be a limited number of component kits available, or these can be procured through a variety of electronics component suppliers online. Kit components were purchased through [DigiKey](

  • - 3x [Blue Surface Mount 1206 LED]( [Permalink](
  • - 3x [Current Limiting Resistor]( [Permalink](
  • - 1x [Simple Add-On Header]( [Permalink](
  • - 1x [2025 / 2032 Coin Cell Holder]( [Permalink](

Note: an extra LED and Resistor is recommended, as these are both cheap components, but all are small, and can be damaged through excess heating. It is worth having the spare.

## Recommended Tools
  • - Soldering Iron & Stand
  • - Lead Free Solder
  • - Something for cleaning the iron (Dampened sponge or brass soldering iron tip cleaner)
  • - Tweezers (Reverse Action Tweezers can be especially helpful)
  • - A clear heat safe surface
  • - Sufficient Ventilation
## Steps ### Preparation
  • - Choose your method of power supply, whether SAO header, battery holder or both.
  • - Choose your method of LED soldering. The LED's can be soldered normally, with the polarity marker against the board, and the lens facing out. This will achieve a halo effect around the badge. Alternatively, they can be reverse mounted. This is more difficult, but will cause a dim glow through the board itself. For beginner solderers, normal mounting is recommended. In the following image, the bruteforcer badge is nomal mount, with the blue halo, and the ringleader badge is reverse mount, with the light transmitting through the badge.
  • - Collect all the necessary components within easy reach in a well ventilated and well illuminated work space

### Tining the Pads
  • - Tinning is the process of touching the silver pads for the components with the soldering iron, then bringing solder to the place where the pad and soldering iron meet. This should leave a small amount of solder on the pads.
  • - Do this for the pads for the resistors (marked R1, R2), LED's (marked D1, D2), and (if needed) the coin cell holder (marked BT1)
### Resistors
  • - Pick one resistor up using the tweezers, with one end accessible to solder. Ensure you can hold the Resistor flat to the board.
  • - The resistors are un-polarised, meaning that it does not matter what orientation or rotation they are in. Once you have the resistor in hand, rotate the badge so that you can hold the tweezers with your off-hand, and solder with your dominant hand.
  • - Bring the resistor over the pad's marked R1. As the pads are already tinned, soldering should only require bringing the soldering iron to the small ball of solder, melting it to the end of the resistor. Solder one end, ensuring the resistor is as flat as possible. If you need to adjust, briefly tap the soldered end with the soldering iron, and the resistor should come away to allow you to reposition.
  • - Once happy with the first side of the resistor, rotate the badge around to allow easy access to the reverse side of the resistor. Apply a little heat, and the solder you pre-applied to the pad should complete the connection. If not, add a small amount of additional solder.
### LED's
  • - The LED's are polarised. On the underside of the LED, there is a green arrow. This should point towards the resistor regardless of which badge you have, as shown in the following reverse-mounted badge:
  • - In addition to their polarity, the LED's have a front face and a reverse side. The front has a clear lens through which some small traces can be seen. The reverse side had a polarity indicator.
  • - Solder the LED's similar to the resistors, ensuring they are oriented correctly, and rotating the board to allow easy access.
### Battery Holder
  • - The badge has an outline of the battery holder, with a notch in one corner which should align with a notch in the holder itself. Ensure that the holder is aligned with this notch.
  • - Holding the battery holder in place, apply your soldering iron to one of the brass tabs until the solder underneath melts and that end settles in place. Keep the holder held in place for a few seconds to allow the solder to cool. Repeat this step on the other end.

### SAO Header
  • - Insert the 2x3 SAO header into the through-holes at the bottom of the badge.
  • - Hold this in place while turning the badge over.
  • - The badge will likely lean backwards, causing the top pins to be better seated than the bottom.
  • - Solder one of the top pins, by bringing the soldering iron to where the pin protrudes through the front of the badge, heating both the pin and the surrounding pad. Then bring solder to where the pad, pin, and iron meet.
  • - Once this first pin is settled, you can push the badge flat against the work surface, while applying the soldering iron to the pin. This will re-melt the solder, and allow the header to sit flat to the badge.
  • - Solder the remaining pins

## Mad Props
Mad Props to Morsh for the epic Droppy art this year. Badge layout and design by AussieKlutz.